Singh is King!

From India Nov/08

Woohaaah! Things sure are alright at this end!

From India Nov/08

Spent my first night and day at the Golden temple complex and, i gotta say, i'm mightily impressed by how well the Sikhs run this show. Everyone's allowed in as long as you take your shoes off and cover your head (and a hankie'll do, no sweat :) and in addition: they offer free accommodation, free food, water and chai round the clock. Donations are appreciated, of course.

From India Nov/08

So today i was finally able to spend a proper, full afternoon going over the notes for the theater play i'm writing for Arnaudje. Sweet bliss, being able to just sit, read and work as the pilgrims pass in front of me. I think i might hang around and spend another couple of days here, enjoy my good Sikh hosts pampering me and get some proper writing done.

From India Nov/08

From India Nov/08

And talking 'bout catching up on some long overdue writing.. I'll continue my adventures from whence i last stopped: back in Harni Mahadev. Strange thing how to an outsider a couple of busloads of Indians on a pilgrimage to a religious festival can at first sight appear to be no different from people just hanging around and lounging the day through, maybe helping out in the kitchen or with that evening's show.. Then again, i only once visited the place's temple; was already heading for bed when Bruno proposed to have a look. And to be fair, i wasn't much up for the droning mantras and accompanying DIY jingle-jangle, shake your dish and bangle music making... Let's just say that tired ol' moi can be a bit of a grumpy ol' soul. ;=)

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OK. That was two days ago. I'm still living it up at the Golden Temple. Had an old Sikh explain me and Brieu (a young French guy from Nancy doing a internship at a Tibetan high school) in somewhat mysterious wording and with a good helping of rhetorical flourishes what Sikhism is all about. Yesterday (Sunday, y'know) the temple got far too busy to get some work done. Yesterday afternoon me and some Australian girl (forgot her name) had a look at the kitchen facilities and were shown round some of the restorative works at an old part of the temple which used to house, amongst other things, a prison and which has a four story deep cellar. Afterward together with three Australian guys and three British girls (who were 18/19 and some months out of high school) helped out picking peas out the pods and washing the stainless steel thali dishes. Oh, and walking back from the dining hall to our dorm we were mobbed by a group of youngsters who all wanted to talk, shake hands or take a picture with us, and just then i spotted the young, married couple i'd met earlier that day, this time with their some years old kid. They said that they had been waiting around for an hour to meet me again. Outta the blue! Without having agreed to meet back up or anything, just like that! Amazing stuff. Can hardly describe how that made me feel, let's just say it was an incredibly touching.

And today, i've to admit to being a bit hungover. Went out for a beer in grand company: the three Ozzies (Jacob, Tim and Cameron) and an American (Tyler) and a New Zealander (Mathew) who had both arrived from Pakistan, the stories they had to tell, wow! Pakistan sounds like a blast! (No pun intended :). Jacob being the lovely feller that he is he had to go and order another 5 beers (of between 5,25% and 8,25% ;=) which we didn't succeed in downing all. Safe to say we all had our fair share. And that in a holy city, some minutes from the temple complex, in the middle of a quite deserted street. For shame! :)

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From India Nov/08

But back to Harni Mahadev: one day (could've been a Saturday or a Sunday or any other day, i don't remember) there were a number of wedding ceremonies taking place. Walking past the colourful screens that lined the complex we (Bruno, Karolien, Linde et moi) were invited in, paraded in front of some of the couples, their families and company (often asking me to pose for a picture with them), and ushered along, through huge crowds of pretty frigging ecstatic young boys, who all wanted to shake our hands, pushing and grabbing at us, like one a big human whirlpool.

From India Nov/08

We then were quickly appointed to be the guests of honour, Bruno and me donned with an appropriate turbanesque hat, and taken to the kitchen where safely tucked away and out of the clutches of the crowds we were served a sweet festive meal. The head of the organizing committee explained us that this year 86 couples of the Sonar caste (Sonar people are none to wealthy silver/gold smiths and jewelery makers) got married that same day. For about 100-150 years Rajasthan's Sonar people have their marriages on that particular date as a general cost saving measure. The date traditionally stays the same the location varies. Lucky us, right?

From India Nov/08

Next stop: Pushkar, it's mela and camel festival. Lovely bus ride across the hills separating Ajmer and the desert valley of Pushkar, plenty of grey monkeys and cacti. We stayed at right up close to Pushkar's holy lake in a wonderful backpackers guesthouse/hippy haunt. The first night, since all rooms were taken we slept in the most charming of tents, which i sadly forgot to take a picture of. Oh, well. First impressions: quite a number of our fellow lodgers already had quite a bit too much ganja and looked more than just a bit bewildered.

From India Nov/08

No doubt the constant drone of the various temples, blasting their chanting and/or freaked out distorted electronic organ music at full volume, in combination with the at times slightly hectic hustle and bustle, the continuous swirl of crowds passing and pushing through the somewhat narrow shopping streets that make up most of Pushkar's center, had a hand in them looking so fazed. Ah, Pushkar! Has to be (sorta) unique for housing an organization whose sole function is: sending back young Israelis fresh outta the army who've taken a bit too many drugs and have kinda lost their marbles.

Enough for today. Just this: I'm currently grooving to The Hickey Underworld 'Future Words', absolutely supejb single, that! (Check it out fer yerselfves @ www.myspace.com/thehickeyunderworldmusic).

Oh, and if some one can explain me how to include pictures (from Picasa) in my posts that'd be lovely! (I somehow can't seem to. Hmmm...)

Loadsa 'all inclusive Sikh' luv,
-hx.

Ps: And keep me posted 'bout how yer all doin', ya lazy bastards! You know i (might not) mean you :) Ooops! ..Must be the drunken Australian still wandering round somewhere inside of me ;=) Ta-ra!

The long winded description of an altogether uneventful couple of hours (Nov. 24/08)

So.. What have i been up to these last weeks?

When i last wrote i was heading for Ajmer, near Pushkar, where i was supposed to meet Bruno & co. But they were actually holed up in an ashram in Harni Mahadev (a tiny 'holy' village some kilometers from Bhilwara) where a religious festival in honour of 'Lord' Krishna was being held (including daily four hour long re-enactments of scenes detailing the life of Krishna from the Mahabharata). Interesting trip, that. My train had a bit of a delay (2hs), so i only arrived in Ajmer at 10pm, the next train to Bhilwara was at only at 0.50am (next bus at 1.30am)..

From India Nov/08

However that train was also slightly in delay, arriving at the station at 3.50am. Then after being dropped by the autorikshaw i called Bruno to come pick me up, but his mobile had apparently stopped working.. So there i stood, 5.30am, completely trashed after three days of being stuck on or waiting for the right bus or train. Nice little square, this. Cool black Shiva temple. Hmmm... Luckily, the tea house/juice bars were already/still (?!) open and their owners, an insomniac rickshaw driver and some other Indians wandering about the place pointed me in the 'right' direction.

From India Nov/08

Should i go past or into this monastery lit up like a Christmas tree? Could this be right? Miraculously, i managed to find the right building and Bruno & co's room - right at the first attempt! However, i'd already started walking away when i didn't spot Bruno straightaway. But then i was greeted and motioned inside by a slight, skinny Indian in very elementary Sadhu garb (a Kaupina* and another very basically draped piece of unstitched cloth) with a thick bunch of rastas, who jumped about the place quite ecstatically. (Or was that just me and my sleep deprivation?) 'Namaste! Namaste! Welcome! Welcome!' Hi Radee. First a hug. Then could i finally drop down and crash? But where was Bruno? Goddamn it! There my lil' bastard lay, fast asleep for f*** sake! Lord Almighty! If i weren't so tired i would've strangled him with much glee, lemme tell ya.

From India Nov/08

But instead, he took care of me first. In less than two hours (7.10am i heard someone saying), there he was jumping on top of me, teasing and taunting. Funny business that karma, ah? Impossible to go back to sleep. Instead introduced myself to Silvie (bit mad, great fun, buddy type, kept a travel sketchbook), Philippe (partner of aforementioned, slightly less silly, bang enthusiast, very good at Ayurvedic body cleansing rituals, tho ;=), Linde (vegan and psychology student, twice afflicted - what cross to bear, right? ;=) But a good talker with a great sense of humor! Tho a bit anal marking off her lil' sleeping place and ordering people about, guess she'll kill me for that last remark, so be it :), David (jovial, active fellow traveler, nr1 supplier of bananas) and Karolien (completely enthralled by Radee, his chanting and yoga, fair enough, but her constant inane laughter and high pitched outta key singing - sessions that went on and on, literally, without end - drove me round the bends more than once, 'fraid we'll never be good friends, a good kid, no doubt it, tho).

Prrrff, my brain still lacks a bit of the ol' sleep i suppose, seem to be doing ages putting together the right words. In a day or two i'll report more on being invited to 86 Indian weddings in the same time, the slightly maddening theater that is Pushkar, Bruno's ashram, traveling through Himachal Pradesh and escaping food poisoning walhalla by a hair's breadth in Shimla - lil' hint: never trust old people (with electrical appliances). Okay?

Loadsa luv,
-hx.

* A sorta loin cloth, which traditionalist Brahmin still wear and which has the added benefit that Sadhus can just pull it a bit tighter when being assailed by sexual urges, great fun that, no? :)

Tomorrow! Tomorrow!!! (Nov. 23/08)

I'll write a proper mail tomorrow. Arrived in Dharamsala at 6 something this morning, after a grueling 10 hour bus ride with no sleep whatsoever and cold, Jeez Louise! Now i'm in McLeod Ganj, the Dhalai Lama's hide out, spent most of the day working quite hard at doing nothing much, just dragging my ol' self about the place. Gonna have some dinner (chowmein, anyone?) now and hit the hay. Till tomorrow.
Luv,
-hx.

A quick word before the internet thingedy place closes (Nov. 20/08)

From India Nov/08

i did it! i broke the code! Unlocked the mysteries of the universe, so to speak.. I.. I.. found a clean place in India!
It's called Chandigarh and it's only 3 1/2 hours (in theory, 5 in reality) from Delhi.
It actually looks frightfully organized in a Western sorta way. Chandigarh, erm... Ow, gotta stop writing, time's up!
I'll try and write a decent mail tomorrow (or the day after, no really, i shall.. hopefully, also include some pictures ;=)
Loadsa luv,
-hx.

Back in Delhi - On our way to Pushkar (Nov. 07/08)

Arrived from Gorakhpur at 6.30, an hour late but for once i rather relished being late. Meant i could just drop of my bag at the cloak room (sounds a lot fancier than the rat infested storage room it really is :=). Had my first banana lassi of the day.. Still looking for a good bookshop to exchange my Nepal guide for an India guidebook, loads of bookstores only open at 12 and my train is scheduled to leave at 11.45..

From India - Nepal Oct/08

So what have we been up to in the meantime? Spending a couple of days in Chitwan National Park. Jungle walk - not that many animals to be seen. A drive with a jeep - spotted some more animals. And a ride on an elephant's back - plenty of wildlife! Especially enjoyed the elephant ride.

From India - Nepal Oct/08

Our 'Super mega bad elefante' was called Shang Shang Kali. Kali being "Shiva's consort in her most bloodthirsty incarnation", also "an incarnation of the tantric goddess Shakti, a pre-Hindu deity linked to the worship of female mystical power". I'm just quoting this off the top of my head, of course. :) Quite a 'bigun' she was too, our 35 year old lass, and thanks to some inspired invocations ('She's a super meany! Evil Queeny! Shang Shang Kali! Rocks the tepee!') and more Shang Shang Kali chanting we won the elephant race and made it back first to the lodge.. Woohoo!

From India - Nepal Oct/08

Also had quite a ball swimming with a rather grumpy elephant earlier that day (the name and age are still a mystery to me since the guy nearly didn't speak any English) but at least i had ol' grumps all to myself, which sure was a treat.

From India - Nepal Oct/08

After the elephant walk time for a goodbye-and-fare-thee-well dinner with my Dutch and the odd Belgian co-travelers. Must say that over the last two weeks i've been quite taken by them. Nice bunch. That morning i had a listen to the cd of Frans, a doctor who also helped me out with an ORS solution during the trekking (back when i could really use some :) Nice record, very basic: two men on acoustic guitar, the occasional vocal/instrumental flourish, a good helping of the ol' life affirming lyric. One of the songs featured the following refrain: 'En altijd de vriendschap als motor', which more or less translates as: 'And always friendship propelling us', which i found rather moving. I'd love to share it with you but i'm afraid i'll be forced to buy the full album first ;=)

From India - Nepal Oct/08

The following day the bus dropped me a little along the way so i could board a bus for Bhairawa and then onto Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. Arrived there just in time for a quick visit and a bit of cycling past monasteries and temples representing the various Buddhist nations and denominations. And then the sun went down and i back to my bit shabby hostel in a rather run down part of town (let's just say i visited some other places in the center - they were charging a bit too much) not too many brick walls among the shanty town shops and tea houses surrounding the hostel. But the dahl bhat/thali the place served was quite brilliant and i had some fun drinking tea with the ever present locals before that.

From India - Nepal Oct/08

Well, must be off - to find me a good guidebook, have me a spot of brunch and catch me a train to Ajmer, where i hope to meet Bruno and co.

Next time i'll include some pics, and who knows i might even have started a proper blog by then.
Let's keep on dreaming, shall we :)

Loadsa luv,

-hx.

Pokhara today, Chitwan tmrw (Nov. 01/08)

So, back to the writin' pad..

Another tricky keyboard so u'll hav to bear with me :)

Arrived back in Pokhara yesterday afternoon from six days of trekking the ABC circuit round the Annapurnas. Six days of upset bowel syndromes, rumbly tummy and the like.. But i survived. Quite well, only really being slowed down a single day. Have to admit that i'm not really the trekking type; after the third day, thru an amazing rhododendron forest the largest of the world, or so they claim :) i'd quite had it. But then again, the whole trek really wasn't that physically challenging (except for the added internal adventure bonus) for me so, well there u go.. Oh, just the one afternoon it rained (evidently ;=) i spotted a double rainbow! Had forgotten all about their existence. Headed back from our lodge to take a picture but it'd gone. Suppose there's a lesson in there somewhere.

Made friends with our guide (who spent five years in the jungle with the Maoist rebels) and the porters, who nicknamed me Bandre after some local comic actor (u go figure! :) tough boys, jeez!

Ai! Mi estomago is doin' completamente better now, so i've already devoured a 75cl cup of freshly blended fruit - devine - and eaten at a local street stall - a crumled assortment of samosas and fried vegetable balls drenched in a bean and lentil soup with plenty of chili and other spices, yum yum!! Beats the tourist food ten times over and for a fraction of the price, u gotta pitty those who never try the real local grub.

Today i'v taken some Swiss chic out for brunch and a spin round the lake (in a boat, mind u) and that was about it, really. Oh, yeah and had a French lady use my shower. What a day, ah?

Well, heading out for Chitwan National Park tomorrow morning. And in a minute, after callin' me mum :=) for the Busy Bee, great pub with live music an a good mix of locals, bikers and tourists. A'write!

Please keep the replies coming, i absolutely relish opening my mail box and having word form either one of you.

Hope you're all doing fine. If not, let me know and i'll send some good karma your way. Express delivery only :)

Loads of love,

-hx.

ps: Oh, just this: discovered somewhere this afternoon that i lost a full note card dating back from my first week on the road.. Bummer..

mOre Pix (Oct. 24/08)

Arrived in Pokhara this afternoon, bit tired really.. But doin' alright :) Got up at 5.20 to get a 6 o'clock bus to Bandipur, a small medieval village, that was alright but not really living up to the billing, the views of the Himalaya were well worth it tho'..

Well, enjoy the pictures!

Loadsa luv,

-hx.

ps: voor de geinteresseerden (die 'n imaginair trema wel weten te plaatsen ;=)

Pokhara is een rustige plaats aan het Phewameer met prima mogelijkheden voor uitstapjes in de schitterende omgeving. Je kunt hier ook een mountainbike huren voor een tocht in de omgeving of naar een dorpje waar zich Tibetaanse vluchtelingen hebben gevestigd. Misschien ben je wel getuige van een indrukwekkende gebedsdienst in een van de kloosters. Een pittige wandeling naar het plaatsje Sarangkot als training voor de trektocht behoort ook tot de mogelijkheden. Liefhebbers kunnen een wandeling om het meer maken onder begeleiding van een lokale gids. Wie het liever rustig aan doet, kan een boottochtje op het meer maken of heerlijk genieten van de rust in een van de tuintjes van restaurants aan het meer.

Vanuit Pokhara, op 884 meter boven zeeniveau, rijden we naar Naya Pul op 1439 meter. Hier begint onze trekking met als eerste doel het dorpje Tirkhedhunga op 1540 meter. We lopen hier in ongeveer vier à vijf uur heen, maar dat kan, afhankelijk van het aantal pauzes dat je neemt, natuurlijk ook langer (of korter) duren. De wandeling begint rustig, maar de laatste kilometers gaan de hoogte in. Onderweg zijn voldoende theestalletjes om af en toe even bij te komen.

Trekking

Dag 12 naar Ghorepani
Dag 13 naar Tadapani
Dag 14 naar Chomrong

De tocht via het plaatsje Ulleri naar Ghorepani op een hoogte van 2775 meter is pittig. Waarschijnlijk is dit de zwaarste dag van de reis, je bent ruim zeven uur onderweg en overbrugt een hoogte van zo'n 1200 meter. De stijging wordt geleidelijker naarmate de tocht vordert; je loopt door een mooi eikenbos met vele rododendrons, die in maart en april in volle bloei staan. Het pad bestaat voornamelijk uit trappen deze dag. Ghorepani biedt een mooi uitzicht op de bergen.

De volgende ochtend kun je naar de top van Poon Hill lopen. Dit is een van de mooiste plekken om de zonsopkomst over het Annapurnagebergte te bewonderen. Het zicht over de verschillende pieken van de Annapurnaketen; de Nilgiri, de Dhaulagiri, de Hiunchuli en de Machhapuchre (de 'vissenstaart'), blijft je altijd bij.

Vanaf Ghorepani volgen we een licht stijgend pad naar Deorali, een mooie wandeldag met fantastische uitzichten naar beide kanten van de bergrug. Na de lunch in Banthanthi is het nog een kleine twee uur naar onze overnachtingsplaats Tadapani op 2590 meter. Het laatste stuk is weer een pittige klim.

Ook de dagtocht naar Chomrong is pittig te noemen, maar je wordt weer beloond met prachtige vergezichten. In Chomrong, een klein plaatsje op 2170 meter hoogte, komen verschillende wandelingen bij elkaar. Hier verblijf je het dichtst bij de hoogste bergpieken en lijkt het wel of je ze kunt aanraken.

Trekking en Pokhara

Dag 15 naar Ghandruk
Dag 16 naar Naya Pul – Pokhara
Dag 17 Pokhara

Tussen Chomrong en Ghandruk kun je kiezen uit een 'korte' route met een stevige klim en een eenvoudiger, langere route. Beide bieden weer schitterende uitzichten op de omgeving. Ghandruk, op 1939 meter hoogte, is een levendig dorpje, waar de bewoners zich voornamelijk bezighouden met landbouw. Er zijn hier restaurants, theehuizen en lodges.

Na zes schitterende dagen trekken in de bergen, dalen we weer af naar het beginpunt Naya Pul waar de bus wacht om ons naar het hotel in Pokhara te brengen. Meer nog dan tijdens het eerste bezoek aan Pokhara zal de rustieke omgeving van het Phewameer je kunnen bekoren. Je kunt hier heerlijk bijkomen van alle inspanning en voldaan terugkijken op je prestatie en een buitengewone ervaring. In Pokhara heb je weer volop keus aan restaurants en winkels.

Ghorka tmrw (Oct. 22/08)

Ok, forgot me usb cable so no extra pics just yet - internet is too slow anyway, but crazily cheap, luckily! Oh, and haldf the keys only have fragments of their original print so be prepared for the occasional typo ;=)

Right, back to business. Spent last two days walking near the Himalaya range, ah and today's sunrise was very nice indeed.. 5.30 Wake up call, yeeha!

Remember my mail from yeterday? As i returned to the hotel and climbed the rooftop to watch the the sun set, there they were, the Himalayas, bleeding big mountains, mate. Quite awe inspiring, really.

The group's a bit slow and my scouting legs frequently carried me off to quieter paths today, so as not to have the constant drone of my very friendly, but oh so talkative Dutchies envelloping all around (and coming from me, i think that says quite enough :) Great fun day dreaming of just wandering round all by myself in this mighty landscape..

Back to my Bhaktapury night time adventure as promised, right? Well, having wandered the streets all day long and only getting back to drop off the food & drinks i'd bought as sun set, i headed back out a bit late. 21.30, that is. Mind you almost all shops, bars and restaurants are kindly reminded by the police/maoist army (who now run the show round here, friendly lot, really - met a number of 'em i/t middle of their training yesterday morning as we were visiting yet another temple ;=) to close up. So off i went back to my favourite square. Still managed to get myself a beer, Gorkha, very nice and new, from the local Tuborg brewery.. Anyway, up walks this guy we chat a bit, he asks me if i'd seen th pick up window round the corner. Must be some local legend me thinkst. Turns out he was talking bout the peacock windows (lovely, actually quite stunning woodwork, pictures will follow) and as luck has it he owns a store right down the street. So he starts showing me his 'all natural loom' clothing, kindly asks me to try some things on.. And no, he doesn't wanna sell me stuff, just have a look.. Anyway prices are now a third of what he'd ask at the day time. So, we chat bout this and that he sings Eight Days A Week by The Beatles, the favourite song of his favourite band.. I decide to buy one item as a gift for my sis, he then gives me a pair of trousers he thinks i should have for free. And well.. I, of course, feel obliged to buy him a couple of beers.. Yeah, money isn't everythying, you know.. So we chat some more, take in the sights of the square and up walks one of his best friends, quite saused, and obsessed with some ghost story.. Found out today that our guide also knows a ghost story occuring to his uncle. The Nepali, you just gotta love 'em..

Signing off for now, please keep me updated bout the latest developments in your lives, Belgian politics, the weather, if the cats stoppd eating, and so on..

Loadsa luv,

-hx.

Bhaktapur Rocks (Oct. 21/08)

Got 15 mins of typin' on a very crancky keyboaqrd before i can go round for my dahl bhaht, cyurah & pickle fest in a local place... Mmmm, me velly hungly :) Ah, yeah, nearly forgot.. m in Nagarkot, famous for it's sunrise over the Himalaya's tho' i still have to see my first snow peaked mountain (range). Had a lotta fun with the local guide, sadly the Dut ch group keep talking typical Dutch nonsense, tr yin' to do my best (well, not too mu ch, true) but.. pfff.. i prefer the Nepali people :)
Yesterday we went to Bhaktapur, which was absolutely stunning my day started out bit moody being hassled by one guide a nd souvenir vendo ur too m any, but then i discovered the old part of town TTachupal Tole and esp. Dattatreya sq. Amazingly beautiful.. Wonderful people , even had some late night adventures there.. Tell u more together with pic s next time.. So still eatin & meetin loc al which is an ab solute treat Nepalis are a wonderful bun ch.
Well, gotta go stuff me belly.
Yam yam ;=)
Loadsa luv,
-hx.

Some Pics (Oct. 19/08)

Doin' alright in Kathmandu.. Visited two temple complexes jut outside of town: Pashupatinath (Hindu, Shiva-aaaargh!!! ;=) and Bodhnath (Tibetan Buddhist). Sending y'all some pictures of New Delhi and of Bodhnath.. Check out my Tibetan homies, who I had great talks and a load of laughs with :)

Loadsa love,

-hx.

In Kathmandu (Oct. 18/08)

Hiya! Just arrived in Kathmandu 'bout 2-3 hours ago.

Very interesting journey from Delhi to Gorakhpur, met two great guys: Thierry, an Englishman from some town in between Leeds and Manchester, and Dave, an Ozzie from Sydney. Dave traveled with me to Kath, Thierry left this morning for Pokhara, but we all spent the night in Sunauli. Met the Djoser group I'm gonna be traveling with the coming three weeks, bit stuffy lot, and old, gosh! average age must be somewhere up and around, erm.. forty? But hey, who knows.. Hope the coming weeks 'things 'll get mixed up a bit', a phrase I'm borrowing from Dave :=)

So, yeah, doin' fine, having a right blast of a time. Meeting Dave and some of his friends in a minute for a drink in Buddha Bar. And yah weather's lovely at this end :)

Loadsa love,

-hx.

First day in India (Oct. 15/08)

Hiiiiiiiiiiiii!!!

First off I want to thank everyone for their many and often incredibly overwhelming signs of affection. These last days I have literally stumbled from one surprise into another, amazed at all the warmth and care coming my way. Don't know where or how I deserved all of it. But one should certainly go away a bit more often… If only to reappraise those close to you ;=)

So how have things come to pass the last two days?

Saying goodbye to my mum and dad after not having slept all night... (So many lil' things to take care of still even in those last moments... Ring a bell, anyone? ;=) …Was a very emotional affair indeed, a lot more than I ever imagined. Then onto the plane to London Stansted. And finally a bit of rest, I had hoped for… None of that! Thanks to Foggy Ole England… After circling Stansted for half an hour we were informed that we would be landing in Luton and that Ryanair would provide us with bus transfer back to Stansted. Adding another 90 minutes of lost time. And I already had little time to spare to get to Heathrow.

Of course I just missed the connecting direct bus to Heathrow by one or two minutes, the following bus arriving but the next hour I hopped in a taxi. A friendly, but rather quiet, and you could've guessed it: quintessentially Indian cabby sped me past the coach, dropping me off at gate 3 well in time. Only non-Indian at check-in. Walking past security and fixed with a taste of the new Gordon's gin, I was feeling a bit more at ease… Had three seats all to myself and apart from being kept by the jingle-jangle of the 3 and 4 year old kids behind me, constantly poking the back of the chair and, the friendly staff waking me up for meals, very tasty all in all… I managed to get some short hours of sleep.

Too exhausted to even consider an attempt at taking a taxi and looking for a place to sleep I just put my feet up and tried to sleep. To no avail. Getting up, finally, having myself a lil' wash at the sink in the men's room. Then took a taxi to New Delhi train station, instead ended up at the travel information center / tour agency and whatnot I'm writing from. Good thing they already fixed me up with my connection to and from Nepal. But being dropped off with no train station in sight in some rundown square tucked away God knows where in Delhi's underbelly, deprived of sleep. Let's just say I was having my initial Indian culture shock zapping me at maximum voltage. Well, it all worked out ok. Have had my first proper Indian meal, toilet experience and got myself a sim card, my Indian number being +91 9990103973.

From India - Nepal Oct/08

Being confused how friendly, a little gay even guys interact with one another round here, or is it my lack of cross-cultural understanding and/or sleep deprivation? Confounded by not being allowed to tip for my lunch, being handed back two Rupees instead. Strange stuff these Indians are made of...

From India - Nepal Oct/08

Ah, and they also needed to take my picture for the sim card, what a mug shot! I'll post it and tell more about it next time, perhaps by then I'll have also figured out how to and what type of blog I best need to use…

Loads of love,

-hx.